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First I must apologize as I original wrote this article some years back . It was since lost and so I have tried to rewrite it here for you . Some of the photos are missing . This I have tried to explain as best I can . So if I was lacking in that explanation pleas feel free to ask so I can try to do a better job that you and other folks will understand
Ok for this , we ware going to start with a standard out of the box CVA bobcat. Now most certainly one could use any rifle they own to do this type of restock ..
So here is what we are going to start with
Now the first thing I do is set down and go through everything and make 2 lists ,.
1 list is for parts we will use . The second list is for parts we need .
I like to use as much as I can . Even if the part needs modified so as to work .
So after going through and over the rifle list is what we have in
* Barrel and hooked Tang
* Ramrod thimble
* Butt plate
* nose cap
* trigger guard
So now I could do castings of the hardware that we need . But that would drive the cost of this rifle up considerably . So I will just order that from a supplier as rough sand castings .
I could also order a stock . Folks most times over look this option .
Basically what you can do is lets say you Like the slim lines and drop of a late Beck rifle . What you do is just measure the width of the barrel. Call a company that does pre-carves Like Pecatonica river . Tell then you want a beck rifle with the barrel inlet to your barrels measurements . But you don’t want any other inletting done , but the RR channel .
don’t forget to save yourself more money and tell them you want the stock cut to a half stock .
Not only will you save on shipping but also cost of a half stock normally runs less then a full stock .
If you like the hardware for that rifle . Have them also sent the correct butt plate and side plate
But for this rifle ill be building from a piece of English walnut. Now there is a lot more work involved in building from a plank . But the + is that you can better fit the rifle to the person or yourself . With a pre carve , you don’t get that option .
This customer likes the fit of the Plastic CVA stock . She is not to tall and has a rather short neck . So minus the draw/ pull being to long for her . Not to mention an completely ugly plastic stock .
The piece we are going to use for this is 2 ¼ thick X 12 inches deep X 36 inches long . You want the plank alittle longer and deeper as well as wider then what you will end up with . So basically im telling myself that the end result will be no bigger then the plastic stock .
So the first thing im going to do is make an outline of the existing stock onto the walnut . So just take a pencil and outline the stock making sure to keep the pencil strait up and down . Doing so will give you an outline ¼ bigger all the way around .
We then take that to the Ban saw and cut it out . Staying just outside the lines we have drawn..
So now we have what is what looks like a gun stock that we can start to work on .
Now before we do anything else , we need to draw a center line on the stock . I must apologize here as I have lost the photo of this . But basically all you do is draw a line on the top and bottom of the stock center of the plank , so if you plank is 21/4 wide . We will have a line at 1 1/8 all the way around .
Now . This stock is to have no cast off . So that center line is what the center of the barrel will set on .
If we were adding cast then we would adjust this line but without the photos , I don’t want to confuse you so we will leave it at that .
So first things first . We need to inlet the barrel . There are several ways to do this job . But im going to do this real basic with just a 3/8 flat wood chisel .
So I measure the flats of the barrel . Not across the flats , just the bottom flat . that’s 3/8 so we now make a line on each side of the center line that is 3/16 .
Now I come back and measure the with of the barrel .
And again place that line along the centerline where the barrel will set . So now you should have 5 lines marked in the area that the barrel will set . The center line . On each side of that the lines of the bottom flat 3/16 out . Then a line out side those lines that’s the width of the barrel .
Now on the nose of the stock we come down ½ the width of the barrel and make a horizontal line . This will be the bottom of the barrel channel . It will only be as wide at this depth as our first markings , so 3/8.
Now if you like to can just lay the muzzle up against this mark and outline it as another reference.
So now w e can start cutting the channel . We can do that with the 3/8 chisel , carefully cutting the octagon a little at a time . OR what I do is use a power drill . Using an power drill with a 3/8 bit .
I take a piece of tape and wrap the drill as a depth gage “ ie if I only want to go 3/8 deep then I wrap the
tape around the drill 3/8 . Now using the center line I drill consecutive holes down the center of where the barrel is to lay . Now I come back and replace the bit with one that’s just a little under the width of the barrel . I then tape it so as to show the depth of the bottom of the side flats of the barrel and using the previous holes, as centers I drill down to the depth I have placed the tape .
Now all that’s left is to take my 3/8 chisel and clean the channel out . Then come back at a 45 deg angle and cut that flat out with the chisel .
Again I must apologize as I have lost the photos showing the above steps so if I have not explained this well enough , please let me know so as I can explain it better
Ok so now what we do is take of the sights . With the sights off , we can then take the muzzle and use it as a flat surface to help us square up the breech area . .
This area is IMO one of , if not the most important area of any rifle . It can have no gaps in the inletting , the metal has to set tight to the wood . If it does not , over time recoil will take its toll . It will drive the barrel and tang back and break the stock .
Now how I do this , is to take a large marks-a-lot and I coat the bottom and muzzle of the barrel . What im doing is replacing the Soot or what’s called sooting a barrel , with a Marks-a-lot as my inletting black .
The reason I do this is it much quicker , cleaner and you don’t have to replace it as often on the barrel during the inletting .
I then place the barrel in the channel running the muzzle up to and against the stock at the breech wall . After giving a couple raps with a wood mallet , I remove the barrel . The Marks-a -lot will leave marks in any area that’s high and touching the barrel .
I then will come back in and remove those high spots . This will need to be done over and over again tell such time as you have a good clean ,tight inlet were the marks- a- lot covers everything
Now with the bobcat , it has a hooked breech . This sets back even farther . But if we square the breech area of the barrel channel first , the tang will go in much easier as we have defined exactly how it must set . So once we are square , we then come back and inlet the tang .
With the tang inlet we can come back an cut a section of the area where the lock will set so as to allow the barrel so set down in the channel .
Now we get to a tricky little part that a lot of folks run into problems with . This would be the barrel Lug inlet . This is the section that the barrel Key or Pin goes through , that hold the barrel down into the stock
First thing we do is take the lug out. Now we hook the barrel into the tang and set the barrel to the bottom of the barrel channel. With the barrel snuggly fir we then draw a pencil line down bot sided of the barrel , where the stock meets the barrel .
I then take the stock out and replace the barrel lug to its dove tail . Then I reset the barrel to the tang . This time however the barrel will not go down to the barrel inlet . Just let the barrel lug rest on the bottom of the barrel channel . Now on the outside of the stock , make marks inline with the front and back of the barrel lug .
In this picture you can also see my pencil line along the barrel
Now I come back and taking a micrometer , I measure the depth of the lug from my mark on the barrel and the depth of the bottom of the barrel channel . These two measurements I then also place on the outside of the stock
What these marks give us is a reference to stay between . That way I can drill for my key or pin , without drilling into the barrel and at the same time staying inside the barrel . Since this rifle I will change from the key to a pin.
NOTICE: don’t get in a hurry !!!!!we have not drilled the RR channel as of yet the pin or key cannot be in where the RR goes .. So before I drill for my barrel pin ,I transfer my intended thickness of RR 5/15, 1/16 below the foremost bottom mark of my barrel lug and carry thes marks down the side and around the nose where the RR will enter .
Ok so now we are going to make the RR channel hole . We have two options
2) make the hole a channel .
I see both ways done a lot on modern reproductions , even on higher end parts assemblies.
Does one way work better then the other ???? No not really .
However IMO making the RR a hole , over actual chiseling out a channel , shows better workmanship .
But I also realize that most folks don’t have the needed longer drill bits , or the ability to make such a bit .
So for this I we will forgo the information needed to drill a long , deep RR hole and do a short hole with a channel .
Ok so taking a standard , every day 3/8 drill bit . We will come around to the front of the stock , where the RR will enter . Remember we mad marks so you should be seeing a center line and a upper and lower line that horizontal that’s 5/16 apart .
Now using the 3/8 bit , we will center and drill into the stock about 2 inches ,. . Now
We roll the stock over and eye ball a mark
In the bottom of the barrel channel , that is even with the step of the stock ,where the RR enters the stock .
Now we come back 2 inches and make another mark. These marks reference where your 3/8 hole started and should basically stop.
Now on the out side of the stock we earlier made marks that showed the bottom of the barrel channel , bottom of the barrel lug , then 1/16 below that the top and bottom of where our 5/16 RR channel would be . So taking a measurement from the bottom of the barrel channel reference . to the bottom of the RR channel reference, I transfer that measurement to a 5/16 drill bit and again use tape as a depth gage .
Now going to inside the barrel channel , I start at the back mark “ what should be the end of the 3/8 hole “
I drill down tell my tape says I have reached the correct depth . I will continue to do this , all the way back to the breech wall . . Just like we did with inletting the barrel .
Then you just come back with a wood chisel and clean out the resulting channel to that the walls are good and square . If you 3/8 doesn’t come on through , simply drill it a little deeper .tell it pops through to the channel you just made.,
The barrel should now set completely in the barrel channel “even with the barrel lug on “
At this time we can now come back and drill for the barrel key or pin
Ok so now we have the barrel inlet , the tang inlet , the RR channel done . And you have the barrel set to the plank and pinned BUTYOU HAVE NOT DRILLED FOR THE TANG SCREW!!!!
So now we start the positioning of the lock as well as inletting the lock
NOTE: nothing is more discouraging then to find after you have the rifle finished and out on the range , that the hammer does not fall true to the nipple . Thus you must bent the hammer .
The only reason this happens is poor workmanship .
Now if we were building a completely new rifle , we would index the bolster so as to have the nipple set true to how we inlet the lock .
But here we don’t have that luxury . Thus we must deal with an existing alignment ..
So what I do is remove the sear from the lock .
I then position the lock so a the inside of the hammer sets true to the top of the nipple but just a tad deeper then the top of the nipple . Approx 1/16 is more then enough . This is so that the main spring will try and drive the hammer deeper the what the nipple allows .
Now some would say ;BUT cap isn’t this already defined by the bolster notch of the lock plate? .
To that I would say YEP . However CVA and traditions do a very sad job of this and many times the Hammers don’t even align from the factory . So since we are building a new stock , lets fix the factory issues as we go along .
I then being careful not to move the lock , mark an outline of how the lock will set .
I then strip all the rest of the parts off the lock . The only thing we want is just the lock plate ..
Now on the back side of the lock plate you will see the lock plate bolster . This the thicker area that mates to the side flat of the barrel and where the main lock plate bolt screws into . This area we must inlet first .
So we lay the lock plate on so it matches out outline . Mark the area for the lock plate bolster . Remove the barrel . Then go ahead and chisel out that area and ONLT that area to a depth where the lock plate will completely lay flat on the stock .. If you left you plank wide like we planned . You should find that the lock plate bolster is about 1/8 from touching the barrel . This is good .
NOTICE : many of you have heard me talk about hogging and that some of the assembly suppliers will charge you a inlet fee . People think the parts will then be fully inlet .
Well its time to show you what I mean .
This next step is what these places leave you to do . it’s the most important and hardest part to do when it comes to inletting . If this is done poorly . Then it will reflect on the entire build .
Ok so we set the lock plate down so the plate now rests fully on the side of our plank .
It should also match out outline we did earlier . IF it does not , then remove a little more wood from around the lock plate bolster so as to be able to adjust the lock to match the outline. If you don’t do this , the hammer will not align up like we planned .
Now set your barrel back in and clamp it so it stays in place .
With the lock plate aligned like we want , we then come around the outside and using a VERY sharp blade held at a slight angle so as the point will scribe the wood back under the lock “ IE the resulting cut will be an out line of the lock but smaller then the lock
We scribe all the way around the lock . Make a couple passes so you get good and deep .
Taking a wood chisel you then come in and remove all the wood from behind the lock to a depth of about 1/16 . . I then Blacken the lock plate with my Marks-a- lot. Set the lock in place , tap it . And then begin removing the areas that are marked . Go sow .
The result is that you lock plate will slowly begin to set into the plank . Again go slow . Keep the lock plate level . The wood behind the lock plate should stay tight . don’t go hogging anything out yet .
You want to continue to drop the plate in tell that the bolster bottoms out on its inlet . When that happens deepen the bolster inlet all the way to the barrel and go back to slowly bring the lock down just until the bolster sets level and tight to the barrel wall .
Again don’t rush , go slow . As I said this is the most important parts of the inlet . Not only will it show your work but a portion of this area , will hold the lock plate level and not allow the plate to warp .
So here is what you now should have . Notice that if you look through the screw holes you will see that behind the lock plate the wood is relatively flush .
So now I drill my sear hole .
I place the sear back onto the lock and I make a pencil mark on the outside of the lock plate , even with where the sear =arm bends into the lock . I also measure the length of the sear arm from the lock plate to its end . I transfer that measurement to a ½ drill and again use tape as a depth gage .
I then again remove the sear from the lock plate . Place the lock plate back in the inlet so we can carry the sear arm marking off onto the stock
Now being very careful not to let my ½ drill touch the outside edge of by lock plate inlet I drill inline with the sear mark , but in the area behind the lock plate , a hole to depth of the tape .
What we are doing is what I call hogging. It doesn’t need to be precise or tight . In fact its better if in this area it isn’t tight . That way as weather conditions change , the stock would dries or swells , you wont end up with something jamming up .
Now what we will do is remove the rest of the wood so as we can set the full assembled lock in place .
So to do this we need to leave a shoulder for the lock plate to rest on . We take our pencil and come about 3/16 and draw align all the way around the inside of the inlet of our lock plate “ And” the lock plate bolster area . You do not want to remove wood from the bolster area
I then take my Micrometer and measure the existing depth on the plastic stock
I then come in and remove all the wood to that depth on my wood stock . Staying inside my line and leaving the wood high were the lock plate bolster is .
NOTICE : THIS IS HOGGING this is what you pay for from many retailers . Infact in most case what many of them do will not be to depth and you will have to do more .
So as you can see . You will still be doing the inletting that counts . IE the area’s that must be tight and will be easily seen
We can now put the lock back together .
Bring it to full cock and set it in you inletting .
You will notice a couple places that will keep it from going down . These will be on the main spring , sear spring and hammer . Using inletting black , cover the pieces of the lock and remove ONLY those areas from the shoulder , that need to clear. Once the lock sets down but the hammer comes in contact . Use the back side of the hammer , while at full cock as a template to make out the back of the hammer .
Remove the wood from that area , down just about the depth of the shoulder .
Whit the lock now fully inlet , We can now make the existing lock plate bolt hole and drill it .
So what you now should have is this
So now we must set out trigger .
We take the factory trigger , which we will modify here shortly , and we align it on the bottom of the stock on the center line but so as that the back of the trigger bare will contact the sear arm for wards of center of the Trigger arm .
Now let me explain something.
If we take out time , with the placement of this trigger , we can actually have a single trigger with a very light trigger pull .
Imagine if you will a teeter-totter.. Basically what that is is a principle of leverage so if we were to place a 300 lb object near the pivot point , it would be possible for a object much lighter , when placed farther away from the pivoted ..
Now there is other things that also must be considered if we were using a different trigger set . But for this CVA . that’s all you need to know for right now .
So ,,, we mark where the tang bolt need to come through and where the trigger arms will be .
we now can drill from out tang down to
So here is what we should have
Now we come back and using a drill bit just alittle larger then the width of the trigger , we drill consecutive holes and clean out for the trigger
Now using the very same technique we used to inlet the lock plate , we inlet the trigger to the point the trigger plate come just below the surface of the wood .
Here the trigger needs to go just alittle deeper
Now since we will not be using the CVA trigger guard , we will cut it from the trigger plate
And now set it back into place and tighten it down with the tang bolt . The trigger should fire the lock with little very nicely
Now what we must do is define out lock mortises.
To do this I make a paper template of the existing mortises on the plastic stock. What do is just lay a piece of paper on the plastic stock and using a soft pencil I scribble across it . This transfers the image that I will use .
I cut this out , lay it around the lock inlet . Then trace it out .
Now if you mark from and back you can draw a 90 deg ling across the stock so as to line the side plate mortise with the lock plate mortise
. Now that w have those defined , I come back with a round bottom chisel and remove some of the wood so a to get a better feel
Now with this done , we can now take our side plate and inlet it , using the same techniques we used on the lock plate
We mark out pull for this customer , I then mark center of the butt plate and draw a line all the way around it .
I lay it up against the side of the stock in the rough end location and draw its placement. Now I go out and using a ban saw I remove the wood from this area , being sure to stay at least ¼ inside my lines .
Again this is the HOGGING you paid for from company X as an inletting fee . They just do it with a router .
Now using the same techniques from the lock plate , I will inlet the but plate .
Go slow , blacken the plate , tap it , remove the wood , ……………..
Take tour time . Its tedious and repetitive . But the end result will be a very tight fit that you will be proud of
Now if you like , you can also inlet the trigger guard a little . On this rifle , I did not do that I chose to just mount the TG with brass screws . I also inlet the nose cap and entry thimble
Ones that all done I start the shaping .
For this I chose to use a big heavy rasp . This rasp has to be my favorite tool . Its originally designed for showing horse and will eat the wood away quick .
Being careful to stay away from the lock mortises , I start rasping the stock down to shape to the point im within about 1/8 of being level with my inlays .
Once im to this point I move to my scrapers .
I very seldom anymore use much sand paper . Scrapers IMO do a better job , can be easily made and reduces the time for whiskering considerably
Now here is my set . These are German made . But you can make your own out of anything . Simple scrap steel or even broken glass works wonderfully
Here is a photo of the scraper in action
So now we are shaped and this is what we have
Now you will notice that I have not done anything with that ugly plastic Ramrod thimble yet .
You can chose to leave it OR in this case , there was no way it was going to stay on this rifle ..
When we take it off we find that a simple little dove tail hold it to the barrel
DON’T LOSE THAT LITTLE DOVE TAIL PLATE!!!!
We are going to replace this with a CVA brass RR barrel
These are the parts
Taking a saw I carefully cut the plastic RR pipe off , being sure to leave a little of the plastic tube attached to the base .
Now taking a file we carefully shape the plastic base tell out brass pipe will fit . We then use the existing screw to hold the brass pipe to the base and to the dove tail plate . This will all then go back on the barrel .
Insert the RR to check out alignment
So now we are just about done but for finishing the stock . . However this is the time when you want to be doing things like carvings or inlays .
This customer had some special requests . She wanted a thumb inlay of a Kapolei player as well as brass feathers on each side of the barrel pins .
She also requested pattern wood inlays to define the but plate .
So here are some photos of the inlay work . Now mind you all this is done the same way as you did on the lock . Nothing hard , nothing more difficult once you learn to do inlays you can inlay anything to wood or steel .
Ok so now we are ready to finish the stock ..
The stock has been whiskered 3 times and burnished
This stock is English walnut . IMO walnut needs no staining at all . Once oiled it will turn a very nice dark brown
For this I use two types of oil . Linseed and Tung .
Linseed by itself is only about 10% impervious to moisture however Tung is something like 90% .
Because Tung goes so deep into the wood it can make an issue down the road if you ever need to repair the stock
So what I do is flood the wood tell it slobbering wet with linseed oil . Making sure to get all of the openings inside and out really soaked . I then let that soak in for around 15 minutes . Come back and whipe of the excess linseed . I then set the stock aside to dry for at least 48 hours .
Once its dry I come back with burlap and lightly buff things out so as to remove anything that might of landed in the oil . I then apply 4 more coats of hand rubbed linseed . Making sure to work the oil in good. moving on to an new area only after the area im working on starts to dry
I let the linseed dry for 24 hours between coats with a burlap buffing between coats .
This is followed by two more light coats of Tung oil .
What this does is seal the stock . The linseed will not let the Tung in to the wood but the Tung will bond strongly with the linseed .
Now if it dries to shinny , just use burlap to dull things down .
The result is a very nice durable finish without the plastic look of true oil or lacquers
Ok so this customer also wanted some checkering on the wrist of the rifle .
So now is the time when you do checkering .
that’s right you never do checker tell the stock is completely finished . The reason being is that the oil helps stabilize the wood . Without it , ist very hard not to have some of the diamonds from the checkering
Bow out .
This also means though that you have to be extremely careful and not rush things .
So here is what we now have when all is said and done
Such treaties may be alright for men who are too old to hunt or fight. As for me, I have my young warriors about me. We will hold our land."
sweet deal cap... question did you fit it with a box in the back end of the rifle. patchbox or whatever its called? how does one go about the fitting , and cutting out the box and fitting parts for one? thanks
Joseph had a coat of many colors, mine are green brown tan and gray
member: Team hornaday
so far i have not had anyone ask to have a patch box put on one. the issue IMO would be that the box would throw the rifle much more out of proportion . though you might be ok with one of the smaller brass captuered box's like on a TC or CVA hawkens ?
There are several different types of patch boxes . Not to mention the changed as the rifles changed .
As far as fitting a patch box ,
The metal is inlayed . The release is fitted , if its to have one , then the wood is removed for the box area . Usually no deeper then what is needed to place a couple flints or some cleaning supplies
here is the easiers way i know to do a sliding wood box
past that , with a brass box you possition and trim so it fits to the but plate cleanly . then inlet . as one piece . that way the door will stay working . once you have it all inlet , you come back and trace out the area to be removed . remove the patch box and chisel out the area .
all this is dont though before the finish work . if you dont you will end up refinishing the rifle as the edges should not partrude above or lay below the level of the wood . thus sanding and fileing will beneeded
Such treaties may be alright for men who are too old to hunt or fight. As for me, I have my young warriors about me. We will hold our land."
One thing I always do is glass bed the area around the lock and the breech end of the barrel and tang. Not sure if it does anything except to fix imperfections in the inletting. I was taught to do it by a couple of rifle builders about 30 years ago and have always done it. If you do a decent job of inletting at most you have a hairline of the epoxy showing. Don't think I have ever had anything show through the final finish.
"Resistance to tyranny is obedience to God" - Thomas Jefferson
or as Charlie Daniels says
"Let's ride boys ... we need a thousand Paul Reveres
i do not glass bed unless its a dyer situation ..
And then only really in 2 areas . Behind the breech and true the barrel channel . Past that , no plastic
If inlets are done right and in good wood , there should be no gap . Not even a hair line after the gun is finished . In fact you can have a situation where your inlet is to tight
Now on a pre carve , that can be a different story . Sometimes the stock doesn’t have the grain running correctly . Sometimes the wood is soft . All these thing have to be taken into account and considered .
So to each their own.
Again there are only a couple situations where I ever will put bedding on one of my rifles . When that happens , the customer is always notified and given a choice as to what to do .
If the issue is mine and I cannot fix it then a new stock is ordered and I start over on my dime
Such treaties may be alright for men who are too old to hunt or fight. As for me, I have my young warriors about me. We will hold our land."
Can you explain how you fit the barrel? All my experience is with modern "free-floating" barrels and bedded actions. From what I have been reading, I am taking it that you want contact between the barrel and the stock? Another question I had was on how much tension, or pressure should I have, or not have on the pin or wedge? Can you explain how much contact and where for an ideal stock fit? I am trying to educate myself before I dive into my projects.
Great tutorial as always, by the way.
Ok JT , lets see if I can do this without photos .
Basicly you have two types of barrel inlets .
1) free floating . This is where nothing touches the barrel but the receiver.
This lets the barrel harmonics move freely down the barrel un restricted .
This works for firearms whos barrels are threaded solidly to a receiver
2) fully bedded barrel . This is where the barrel is in constant full contact for the length of the barrel . This can be seen in #1 but is used with traditional muzzleloaders because the barrel is only supported by the stock IE no receiver.
Basically whats your about to do is un learn most everything you learned in light weapons school . that’s when it comes to Traditional muzzleloader designs .
Modern is very much the same as what you have learned .
So when I fit a barrel I use inletting black .
Now lets say we are working on a pre carve stock that someone has used a router to do the barrel channel .
If you use an inletting black and set the barrel to the channel . Give her a tap so she settle solidly . What will happen is when you take the barrel out , the black will leave marks on wood , showing where the barrel is contacting .
Now what your looking for is a consistent transfer of the black , from one end of the barrel channel to the other .
If not what you have is in a since a bad floating job . IE the barrel is only supported in a couple locations and at the tang . This isn’t good not only for consistent barrel harmonics . But its also not good for the stock in that it may eventually break.
So what you do is go down into the barrel channel and remove just alittle of the wood that has been marked with the black . Then you re fit the barrel and try again . Once again removing wood from only the areas that are black . Eventually those black areas will become more and more untell you come to a very good consistent contact through the length of the channel .
See you want the black to transfer . But not just here and there . Them more consistent the contact , the better .
A perfict job would be full and complete transfer to the barrel channel . Just as if you used a glass bedding to fully bed the barrel .
Basically just the opposite of floating a barrel instead of removing area that come in contact with the barrel so as to ensure the barrel floats evenly .
We are removing wood so as to bring the barrel down to a more constant contact
Now there is one exception . That the barrel lug “ IE posts that the barrel pins or keys go though to hold the barrel to the stock . These should not contact and the pins themselves should set to an oval slot so that the wood and barrel can expand or contract independently , without binding . But at the same time ride solidly so as the stock cannot pull away from the barrel .
As such when you have an even transfer by taping the barrel with a wood mallet . You will have an even tighter transfer as the barrel is pinned and the tang bolt tightened .
Picture it this what . When we accurate a receiver by bedding it , what is it we are doing ?
Basically we are using a glass to ensure that the receiver has full contact .
We want this for many reasons . But I don’t think I need to explain that as yur well versed in that area .
But in very basic form ,why is there a need for this ?
Well because for the most part , stocks are now days not made by hand . They are made on CnC machines that route out the receiver areas . On really high end CNC the tolerances can be very tight . But for the most part they simply are not . Once that stock comes out of the duplicator , it goes to a station where a receiver is fit . A little wood is taken off here , maybe there . Tell the receiver sets to a given standard and its moved to another station .
BUT if that stock was made 100% by hand like we are doing then there simply is no excuse for that receiver to not fit tight as a tick to a hound . There would be no need to bed the receiver.
Same with the barrel . Either the rifle was to be built with a floated barrel or a bedded barrel .
Not something in between . Either it right or its wrong
Now the other thing that can happen is a warped stock . IE the stock pulls the barrel channel in a direction not true to the barrel .
Depending on who you talk to , this can be an issue as the stresses of the fully bedded stock transfer to the barrel .
Again how much effect this has depends on who you talk to .
As you know when building a highly accurate rifle , the less stresses imparted , the better .
A tournament shooter wants to know if there is any inaccuracy its coming from them not the stresses of the weapon . Basically a minimization of possible issues to could effect accuracy ..
As such a stock that may warp to the left , could in fact impart stresses to the barrel that would not normally be there . Now granted this is more concerning long full stock rifles over half stock rifles .
So again when you think of fully bedding something , we are trying to distribute all stresses evenly .
Through the firing cycle the rifle has to move as one with energy transferred equal and smoothly.
This is where beading of the breech area comes into play with some muzzle loading gunsmiths
If that area behind the breech does not make full and equal contact with the breech, eventually the recoil will force that to happen . So as the barrel tries to force itself back to a full seat , the recoil is transferred un evenly to the area that is in contact . This continues tell such time as those high areas are compacted and the barrel coms to an even resistance . This compaction then places undo stress not only on the stock , but on the tang bolts and lock , thus lock bolts . Because everything is trying to drive back . As such something has to give and normally the stock will crack under the stress .
But if one takes one time , uses quality wood . With the grain running true and the barrel in full contact , the rifle will recoil and move as one . The energy transfer will be equal and spread evenly
as to how much pressure to set a barrel .
Basically if the barrel is fit properly the key or pin can be lightly tapped into place . It will hold the barrel but not bind the barrel .
So what I do is set the barrel and inset the pins or keys . ALLWAYS FROM THE LEFT SIDE.
Especially concerning pins . The must allways come out the left and go back in on the left . If you start driving them through , the whole will enlarge and the pins will not have the resistance of the wood to hold them in place .
So as you saw in the photo’s . I set the barrel and inlets it to as even a transfer as I can .
I then transfer the marks so I know where the bottom of the barrel sets and how much the lug extends below . I then lightly clamp the barrel so it will not move while im drilling . I drill through tell the bit places a mark on the lug . I remove the barrel and drill out the lug . .
I replace the barrel and continue through the other side of the stock . I then remove the barrel Make sure to elongate the hole in the direction of the barrel length. Being careful not to enlarge the hole larger then the pin itself in height
What this does is allow the barrel or stock to expand Or contract independent of each other while still being in contact with each other .
Now when I place the barrel back to the stock and insert the pins or key , the barrel should not be able to rise up out of the stock . It will set snug
when that CVA mt. rifle gets here, I'm gonna use this and give her a full stock..er.uum....... I'll even do it online..... just hafta actually get my lyman tutorial up first!
It's not what you do............ It's how you do it.
It's a good idea and will improve accuracy.
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