Lets design & make a recurve..Snake skins !!

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Lets design & make a recurve..Snake skins !!

Postby Greywolf » Wed May 20, 2009 5:04 pm

Ever have one of those bows that was just about perfect…… if….. If… the handle was more of this or less of that. Or the limbs didn’t bend so much? And so “if” becomes a “thing” with that bow? It did with me. So I decided I want a bow that I like, handle of this one, limbs of that one and the limb tip curve of that one over there hangin on the wall.

So on the lid of my heat box that’s, exactly what I did, I drew my “perfect bow”. Then I decided I need to build it, to see if it shoots like it does in my head(perfect or close to it)

I went to Home Depot and bought some ¾ plywood, had it ripped into 3 15 7/8s pieces wide pieces.
In the truck they went and away I went. I knew how designing a bow can be, Bowyers use sophisticated Computers, CNC, deflex meter machines, and machines I can’t even begin to spell their names. But that wasn’t going to stop me, so I dug into my own stash of sophisticated tools. If O.L. can build one daggonit, so can I.

So I rummaged through my stuff and found almost every tool I’d need, So lets build a recurve , lets go start to finish.

First my sophisticated design tools, Quilting hoop for the limbs, a straight edge for the riser and line marking, a tape measure for accurate measuring and a drywall mud bucket for the limb tips,
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Remember it has to be a drywall bucket or it’ll not …….well nuff said

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Ok, lets get started, first we need base lines, everything comes from these two important lines, this one, I used 36 inches as a base line, the form ply is longer, but 36 inches is the base line.

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Now for the length base line height, I chose 7 inches, remember the base line stays, but the limb lines will go above as well as below the base line, so give plenty of room.

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First I lay out how long the riser is going to be. This one is going to be 20 inches from fade out to fade out. I can also shorten it to 18” or 19” if I like, or squeeze out 21” or 22” if I want a longer riser. The riser is a modified Bingham’s design forward style riser, like I said “If it was just a little different” now it is.

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Ok lets put some limbs on this bow, I like the curve of the Hoyt Hunter limbs, nice gentle accelerating design, hard to free hand draw so I used the Alpha Females oval quilting hoop and just about got just what I wanted…… sorta… it needs some modification too.

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I used black B-50 string thread ( very important to use black ) to pull the hoop so it bends a little faster than just the hoop, so I tie the top and bottom together and pull real hard bend the loop and tie a square knot.

I laid it on the limb and marked how long the limb was, I marked it all the way across both side so I can flip it over to use on the both ends.

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And do the other end, everything is do exactly on both ends.

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You should have something that looks like this, crude I know but Hey, we're designing a recurve .

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Before we “freehand blend” the limbs into the riser, measure from the base lines, everything is exactly the same on this bow………..I guess………should be if we did it right…

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I forgot to take a picture of the bucket making the final limb tip , sorry bout that, but It happened.

Now that the blending is done, Good job by the way, we need to make this a workable form which means we need to have a top and bottom (2 piece form) this bow, We’ll use a fire hose for our pressure.
Take a ¾ inch scrap of wood and using the bottom line of the form trace a “air gap” space all along the limb bow line. The site cuts my pictures off on the right side, I used a block of wood ¾ thick to make a ¾ inch line exactly like the bow we just drew. look at the bottom of the pic, you can see the gap I want.

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Lets do the riser, the original riser is way to pronounced for me, I don’t do HIGH wrist grips, Why? Donno just don’t. So I lower it by an inch or so…. now I like it, it “fits” me ,so allow ¼ inch for the laminations and draw the riser in place.
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Maybe the old from pattern might work………..uhhh nope to high…. Freehand !!!!
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Same thing, we need a “air hose gap” over the riser but make this just a ½ inch instead of ¾ inch, it’ll be a tighter fit when and if we decide to shorten the riser there will still be enough of a gap. Great Idea ! Huh? Who said I was dumb????

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Ok, lets make this a press, we need to glue both ¾ inch plywood pieces and we need to put a ¼ inch piece of plywood same width sandwiched in between that, Should make it the full 1 ¾ inch wide limb I’m looking for.

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Oh with today metric measurements ¾ ply wood isn’t ¾ inch thick. I can up 1/16th shy.... not a big deal the lams I’m going to use on the press will make up for it. (Again sorry the pic got cut off, it’s just 1/16th shy
Of 1 ¾ inch)
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Tomorrow we glue and screw the press together, it’ll become clear why I drew the bow on the press.

Stay tuned it’s gonna be on heck of a fun ride

If ya have any questions ask, sometimes things don’t always come out they way they do in my head.
Last edited by Greywolf on Sat May 30, 2009 1:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby TradRag » Wed May 20, 2009 10:57 pm

This is great!! Thank you!

If some of you are not seeing the entire image please maximize your browsers. I made some server changes and that should help. It did for me. :mrgreen:
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby >>>---DW---> » Thu May 21, 2009 1:06 am

Yeah great thread, good work! :mrgreen:
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Greywolf » Thu May 21, 2009 4:56 am

Tomorrow...we glue it together make sure ya check back, be posten them early in the mornin my time.
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Apex Predator » Thu May 21, 2009 4:57 am

This is gonna be a great one! Keep it coming man!
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Greywolf » Thu May 21, 2009 1:57 pm

Hey welcome back, We got the bow drawn and freehand work is done. Remember it’s just a bow.
I like how the limbs kinda melt into the riser, but you may like it another way, it’s up to you. It’s your bow.

All of the bows have been designed, or made, good, bad, successful, failure, indifferent. This one isn’t something no one thought of as far as design ( well maybe me) I just modified some of the parts that’s all.

On with the fun, when we glue up a bow or anything else it’s always wet to wet surfaces, it just sticks together better. That’s a fact.
Same for bow form presses, lets get started, I use bondtite I, II, III what ever I have… wood glue !

Start with two up sides and smear the glue over the entire surfaces as long as it good and covered

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Keep on stacking till all mating all wet surfaces are glued.

Remember, We have the bow on base lines so it’s already drawn, just mate the bottom factory edges and make sure they are square…………. Why……. just so it won’t fall over that’s all…… see told ya it was simple…

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And start screwing it together (sorry the picture is cut off) This is the first of a hundred or so screws.

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Now the reason we drew the bow first becomes clear, I don’t want to put any screws in the bandsaw blades way
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Go ahead and mark out for the air hose and length of the bow, (58 to 62 inch bow) and we’ll cut the excess weight of the press off later. Remember it’s almost a full sheet of ¾ plywood to carry.......... heavy !!


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With all the screws in place lets see how straight the press is…..

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Opppps Guess I got a little heavy handed huh? Of geeez what to do now?

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Well, I laid one end on a 4X4 scrap of wood and applied kinetic energy with gravitational……. I jumped on the darn thing………. Hoping to rack it back into straight or close to it . I tried for a pic but it didn’t work out…….. I checked the straightness again and it’s close so I put a angle iron on it and shimmed it straight

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See it told you there was all this sophisticated ways to build a bow.. Thank you Sir Isaac Newton.

Good to go, we’ll let it dry over night and see what we have tomorrow.

On with the build…………..

We need to keep this press soon to be in two pieces together, we need straps.. Lets makem..

Light steel 1/8 thick and one inch wide and bout…….8-9 inches long will work

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Back to the press and decide where the most pressure is going to be…….that’s everywhere darn so just mark it 1/3 1/3 1/3 we’ll put on two straps.


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The bottom of the press is the base so put two holes in the bottom to steady the top…Drill press…. yesss


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I like it, looks good, and if it fits, this will be my pattern.. Lets see how it fits…………

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I love it when a plan come together, We need three more………..


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Ahhh done ! We have just what we need to keep our press together, all we need to do it cut the press into…
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Ohh shoot…….. it’s not dry yet……….ok, well…………. do that tomorrow, and like Will Primos says………This ain’t Hollywood
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Okie » Thu May 21, 2009 9:34 pm

Keep it coming. I'm lovin' it.
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby kevin12306 » Thu May 21, 2009 10:04 pm

Very informative!!!!! Keep it comin... 8-)
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Greywolf » Thu May 21, 2009 10:09 pm

Thanks guys,
Tomorrow, we should be able to finish the press or be real real close.

Aloha
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Greywolf » Fri May 22, 2009 11:27 am

I just thought of something, kinda a bummer that out here in the middle of the ocean floatn around on this rock, were 3-6 hours behind ya all, pending where ya live. Oh well that's the price of Paradise ;) Ya ready?.............

Howdy ya all sleep? Good? I did, Ok, go use the bathroom, grab a cold one, and lets get it on !!!
Let see about the press, that’s where we left off yesterday.

I pulled the angle iron off of the press, I made sure we are dead on the money for straight, lets check it with the 4 foot level, last thing we need is to "Build in" a twist in the bow.
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Looking perfect, notice I checked at where the bow will be on the press, it is lazer line straight every place I put the level.

Lets MAKE SOME SAWDUST !!!! I love this part !!

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My cut is going to be right down the center between the two lines, it’s way to heavy to push and guide easy, half at a time is going to be so much better to handle

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ALL RIGHT TWO PIECES !!!!

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Lets do the top side first, it has to be real close to the line but because this is the side where the fire hose is going to be it’s not as critical but it’s a good warm up for the real deal….

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I recut the bottom bow line, this has to be as close as possible, cut to the line , then I’ll sand or file to the line.
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I love hand tools for bow building, rasps, draw knives, files, scrapers what ever it take to get it to the line

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It’s now where the rubber meets the road, the blade has to be exactly 90 deg or the bow will have a built in limb twist, so each inch is checked with a hand square to make sure it meets my expectations.

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Now I know your wondering ( or ya should be) What happens if I go too far, or past the line? Let me share a little trick I learned way back bout 100 yrs ago ( yeah just checking if you were paying attention)

Take a straight edge, darken the edge about a 1/8 the in along the edge
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Lay it along the edge and see if you see black, if you do it'a a divot or low spot, well, guess what? it’s my build along So….. I made one for you. Why? so you will know how to do a fix, I sanded a couple low spots in the form, see the black along the edge? That’s the low spot, One time or another this will happen, good to be prepared, check it out.....

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OH NO !!!! not to worry. Take a pencil and mark the low area by shading the spot so it’s easy to see

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Men can rule the world with 3 things Duct tape, WD 40 and Bondo
Mix up a batch it’ll get hard in bout 10-15 minutes pending how hot you mix it, rough up the repair area with a hack saw blade.
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Put plenty on, build it up little higher than the form, use the straight edge if needed to double check to see if it is high enough. Now file and rasp it smooth, making sure it’s square, see that was easy !!!
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After all the rest of the press is squared, lets move on. We need some holes for the bolts to hold the brackets on. We have the pattern and marked all the hole that need drilling bottom holes are for 7 /16th bolts top hole are for 3/8ths bolt.

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After we drill all the holes we need to add ¼ inch thick spacers on each side of the press to allow the air hose to inflate oval I know this is common knowledge but only put spacers on one side, then drill the holes out again if needed.

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Insert 2 7/16th bolts in the bottom of the brackets and tighten the down snug, these will stay on the press and not be removed again so locktite them if you want.

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With the spacers on the top of the press slide it between the brackets and put the 3/8 this bolts in the top holes and snug these down too.

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Oh wow look it fits !! And looks good thumbs up!!!

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One thing I do is weld the top nuts to the bracket after it’s tight on both brackets, Image

I also grind a rounded end on the bolt to guide the bolt into the nut and I weld a ¼ inch rod onto the end of the bolt for a handle to help tighten the bolt down.

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Let finish the press and call it a day. Remove the top of the press, drill a ¼ inch hole at the center of the bottom press and center of the edges this is going to keep the riser in alignment.

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I cut a ¼ inch pin to put into the press make it how ever long but only let it stick up a ¼ inch that’s enough
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See the patched area? Finished I like it now one more thing and we have a press ready to do a dry run
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I use to order my lams and they would wrap the outside of the lams with a .080 packing strips I used packing strips to glue on the press to make the press bottom perfectly smooth and the glue will fill and small unnoticeable davits or sanding oppps
I used M77 spray adheasive to stick the laminations on the bottom of the press, it holds ok, but I'll use smooth on later, it's not holding the the way I want.
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Last thing is the alignment washers remember the press is 1/16th shy of being 1 ¾ inch so Formica shims will do perfectly

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Drill a couple of small holes in the edge of a fender washer will make perfect slide fit guides, up for holding the lams in place and down to keep them out of the way.

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Last thing then we can do before a dry run…………Wax on…….Wax on yep coat the whole thing with car wax, wood bolts brackets everything, what ever you miss glue will somehow find it's way there. !!!

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DONE !!!!
Tomorrow we’ll do a dry run……………. Ohhhhhh yeah Image


*** Real time Disclaimer****
What took you 10 minutes to read, took about 7 hours to do. There's about 18-20 hours in this project so far.
If case your wondering, I'm taking the pictures from a tripod, I do what ever, then go back and take pictures, so some/most/all of the pictures are "Staged shots".
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Apex Predator » Fri May 22, 2009 12:45 pm

This might be a dumb question, but how are you gonna have enough room to fit all your lams and air hose between those two form halves. Looks to me like you are gonna have to go back to the band saw and cut the top half to the line that your drew.
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby LostHawg » Fri May 22, 2009 1:12 pm

Mark, looks like you're having way too much fun. :mrgreen:
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Greywolf » Fri May 22, 2009 1:22 pm

Apex Predator wrote:This might be a dumb question, but how are you gonna have enough room to fit all your lams and air hose between those two form halves. Looks to me like you are gonna have to go back to the band saw and cut the top half to the line that your drew.


No Sir, not a dumb question at all, I if you look back at the first few pictures I used a 3/4 inch plywood block to make and maintain my gap, there is a 3/4 gap all along the press, except near the riser that's bout a half inch of room or maybe little more. If I need I can use bar clamps to help put the top on.
The picture is deceiving because of the angle of the camera, some bowyers use a 1 inch clearence, plus if it's too tight I can always just cut another strip off of the press top to make it fit as needed, well see tomorrow, we're going to do a dry run and see how well it fits and then make any modifications needed.
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Apex Predator » Fri May 22, 2009 1:48 pm

Gotcha! I've been using the old, outdated rubber band style form and having good luck with them, but may change in the future to this style of form. Always trying to learn new tricks.

I love your build-a-long by the way. It's almost like being there. Thanks.
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Greywolf » Fri May 22, 2009 7:36 pm

Any way that makes a bow is great. A lot of my longbow presses are C clamp presses, sometimes when I need more pressure and the clamps won't provide it, I use rubberbands in between the clamps, screw in a wood screw one each side and put a couple bands on, How great is that!! Out dated? Naw..... just a different way to make a bow. rubberband, c clamp and air hose, they are all proven methods. I'll us'em you betcha !! after all, look at your bows..... out dated?... :rolf: .........................Not !
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Greywolf » Sat May 23, 2009 11:42 am

LostHawg wrote:Mark, looks like you're having way too much fun. :mrgreen:


Yes Sir I am, this is my "Me" time, In my cave relaxing, only other thing better is illegal so I'm good to go !! :rolf:
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Greywolf » Sat May 23, 2009 11:51 am

Betcha thought I’d take Saturday off huh, well I was….but I wouldn’t leave ya hang’n

Before we do a dry run, let me catch ya up on couple things, I had some time so I glued the riser block together, all I did was rummage through my scrap box and decided what woods to use in the riser.

Then the hard part was deciding which wood to go where, after 5-6 different tries I like this one. So I used Pheasant wood,maple accented purpleheart, bubinga, black walnut and bocote and lots of smooth on epoxy.

Just like before wet to wet and make the lines tight to do that, might require clamps, screws, rubber bands, heavy bucket of water, it don’t matter just hold it right where it needs to be.
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The angle pieces holds it down on the bench, the clamp makes tight lines, like I said, what ever it takes.

I then traced the paper riser pattern on a clear piece of Plexi-glass and cut it out on the band saw. The reason I used clear is, so I can see through it, and tell how the riser will look cut out, plain and simple

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I sanded it to remove rough edges and make it smooth, sometimes it’s hard to keep from melting the plexi-glass, just go slow.

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After a 5 hour sauna in the hot box and a cool over night, I squared the riservblock with the jointer and table saw
Look close you can see the pattern and where I marked center and traced it on the riser
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Saw dust makin time I love this stuff !!!
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Just cut slow and stay outside the line, we will sand to the line.

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Completed cut out riser, Now we need to sand the fades in, they will be paper thin..
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Sand to the line and thin the fades, even though it will be encased with laminations it needs to be light tight fit.

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Once we have it shaped, remember that pin I drilled and put in the press? Find and mark the center, drill a ¼ inch hole in the bottom of the riser block, it does a couple things, keeps the riser from sliding all over the place and keeps the lam in close to where they need to be, and last, kinda hold them down, but don’t rely on it.

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Ok, lets do a dry run, this is where it works …or not !!!!

Ok, lets do a dry run to see how it fits, we will clean the laminations later when we are ready to glue it up, so that way, we won’t be touching it again without gloves. First let’s lay down some plastic wrap, this protects the press from glue, kinda keeps it contained

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Plain ole cling wrap will do, you know the stuff that won’t stick to anything...except it’s self &%$$(@
It goes between the brackets and covers end to end
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Start building from the belly up, glass, tapers, riser, parallels, glass in that order

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See that was simple huh? Wait till it has epoxy on it, having 4 hands works well, other wise it’s a real bear to keep it all together . All the lams need to be taped tight to the curves, even the riser and 3-4 places from end to end too

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Lay the pressure strip on the out side of the glass and cling wrap, and then put the deflated air hose on top, now we are ready to add the top and lock it in place.

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Lay the top on top and insert the bolts and tighten them hand tight, if ya need, you might need the help of pipe clamps to get it talked into place.

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See just a tad bit of persuasion it fits perfect

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Now swivel the all washers up to touch the hose, if it needs the hose will push the washer down as it inflates

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Here’s what all the hard work has done so far.

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Give the hose a quick blast of air, not a lot, but holds firm, we want to be able to make adjustments if needed
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Speaking of which, the air hose should be equal on both sides the lams should be taped and not move, if they happen to shift make ALL adjustments now.
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Now add 50 PSI of air to the air hose, everything should be fitting perfect, all joints should be light tight.
Ready for true glue…………….. Well?

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And the verdict is…………………………… Oh yeah !! See how the hose is in contact all on the lams full downward pressure across the lams, Excellent job.

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Ok, Ok, Ok lets not get all carried away…well ok…… just a little…..

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Ok now that we know we can glue it up, we’ll glue it up…………….tomorrow….. Today is ranch time.

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Oh, I forgot to mention about the top cuts of the press, I cut the bottom of the press to the most length I can get out of this press which is a 64 inch bow and cut the bottom off at that point, I also cut the top on a 45 deg bevel so the air hose ends wouldn't hit the press or interfere with the top going on, I could of ordered a longer hose but this one works with all my other bows so I didn't see any reason to spend more money on another hose 4 inches longer.

For now, we just reached a mile stone, it looks like it just might work . will it be a shooter? the next bridge we have to get to. Thanks for stoppen by

Have a good day, I need to go play for a while

Aloha
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Lance Coleman » Sat May 23, 2009 12:24 pm

I think to date I've played part in designing 3 recurves and 2 longbows for different bowyers. I've beena wood worker and carpenter for what seems like forever.

All a sudden thanks to You and Marty, the light is starting to go off that, "I should just build what I want."

What are you using as a pressure strip??
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby >>>---DW---> » Sat May 23, 2009 12:48 pm

That's friggin awesome!!
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Greywolf » Sat May 23, 2009 1:02 pm

Lance Coleman wrote:I think to date I've played part in designing 3 recurves and 2 longbows for different bowyers. I've beena wood worker and carpenter for what seems like forever.

All a sudden thanks to You and Marty, the light is starting to go off that, "I should just build what I want."

What are you using as a pressure strip??



Same here Lance,been a carpenter for 40+ yrs even though, it's my job, But, building bows is my melt down time.

The pressure strip is a piece of 20 ga sheet metal strip 1 3/4 wide (for this bow) just something that keeps the Waffle pattern of the air hose from transfering to the glass during the 6 hour heat activation process. (Which it will)

Sounds like you have couple of those "If" bows too. it took me almost 10 yrs to figger out the "Bobble" in the limb, and I discovered it by mistake on another bow, I just like the look, nothing more....
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Lance Coleman » Sat May 23, 2009 10:10 pm

Every bow I own except one is a "IF" bow. If this one had that ones limb design it would be awesome. If I could transfer the grip from this one over to that one it would be perfect. If this one was the draw wieght of that one I would hunt with it all the time, and I wish this one was 66" instead of 62" because it would be all I shoot. Yea. I got plenty of *IF* bows bro.

Is 20 ga the best thickness?? I have access between my vinyl and trim coil supplier and metal roof supplier from somewhere around 18 ga down to 29 ga.
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Greywolf » Sun May 24, 2009 1:00 am

Lance Coleman wrote:Is 20 ga the best thickness?? I have access between my vinyl and trim coil supplier and metal roof supplier from somewhere around 18 ga down to 29 ga.


I just walked in and ask for 20 ga sheet metal because that's what I saw on my first bowmaking video about 20 or so years ago.
It has to stay ridgid from side to side, but be flexable enough laterally(long ways) to bend and shape to the limb configuration. I bought 16 feet of 1 1/2 inch, 12 feet of 2 inch and 12 feet of 1 3/4 and I still have a couple pieces of each left as they just move from press to press, take down limbs are only 33 inch, longbows are 70 inch and so on.

I've never really tried anything else, just what I saw and was told. Kinda like your Moms easter ham, ya buy it and cut the end off the small end Why? Well maybe it makes it taste better? and besides that's the way mom always did it, ok lets ask her, The ham was always great when she cut the end off, Hey Mom, why did you always cut the end off of the ham? because it was too long for the pan.

Ya might want to experiment if your so inclined, all my journal entries say 20 ga pressure strip. So if it ain't broke.....
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby kevin12306 » Sun May 24, 2009 10:31 am

Very detailed!! Thanks for sharin!!! :D
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Greywolf » Sun May 24, 2009 12:30 pm

kevin12306 wrote:Very detailed!! Thanks for sharin!!! :D


kevin........Thank you for watchin !


No problem this is my fun time, I have one longbow press thats been copied 128 times to date, I'll share with anyone who wants to learn, but you do have to commit to a verbal contract with me. It's purty simple contract too.....
You build one longbow for yourself, and then build at least one more with someone who is interested in traditional archery, or wants a bow themselves. simple huh? It's my small contribution to our sport and keepin it going.
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby TradRag » Sun May 24, 2009 12:54 pm

wow.. I was doing good following along until I saw you dancin' a jig!!! :rolf: I do it all the time.... saying to myself.. oh yeah, oh yeah! This is awesome and can't wait to see more.
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby kevin12306 » Sun May 24, 2009 2:29 pm

I may have to take you up on that offer greywolf. Right now I'm in the process of makin a 3pc. recurve. My 1st bow attempt, but would like to do some 1pc bows soon. Thanks again...
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Greywolf » Sun May 24, 2009 5:34 pm

"I may have to take you up on that offer greywolf. Right now I'm in the process of makin a 3pc. recurve. My 1st bow attempt, but would like to do some 1pc bows soon. Thanks again..."

Ahhh the fine memories of my first 3 pcs take down which I named "Misfit" I figgered there was 6 things that could go wrong with a take down bow....I had all 6 to some degree at once, I learned to deal with each problem one at a time, the others might or might not correct themselves as you go. Gave me a good feeling to rename it the "elkbow" 3 yrs later in New Mexico.

When you want a copy just shoot me a PM with your snail mail address be glad to send it to ya.
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Greywolf » Mon May 25, 2009 12:25 pm

I’m not for sure bout you guys but I’m getting excited !!! It’s a scary thing at this point, it’s that is it going to work or fail syndrome. But positive thought wins out, with my proven combination how can I not win !!!

Ok, some prep work, clear the bench, we need space !! And it needs to be covered too, couple things also, we need to preheat the oven and heat the laminations so both at the same time will work, turn on the oven and ………….oppps we gotta clean the lams one last time, ok slow down were getting ahead of our selves which can and could be disastrous

First the epoxy ……Check Part A and Part B and measuring cups
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Ok turn on the oven, this baby will get to 180 degrees and 200 deg if I cover it. It’s a winner

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Ok, lets clean all the lams, tape goes on the outside of the glass (smooth side) and the rest gets cleaned with 95% denatured alcohol some use other cleaners I use this because it evaporates 100% leaving no residue, plus it burns in the lamp too.

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Last thing I do is open the grain with a heavy wire brush and it removes any lint from the rag I used for cleaning.

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All the lams go in the oven for 30 minutes to 1 hour it relaxes the grain and lets the glue go deeper into the wood.
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Lets get started mixing, you might have noticed I wear gloves when handling the lams and riser never again will they be touched my humans hands on the gluing surfaces. Clean, Clean, Clean

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Part A is white and Part B is amber
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Mix 50/50 ratio
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It looks like snot when it’s mixed together and mixed well, mix and let set for 10-15 minutes to do it’s thing.

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Lets get the press ready, it’s the same as the dry run. BUT THIS TIME, IT’S FOR REAL !!

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Hey I found something else the cling wrap sticks to.. Rubber gloves, takem off it’s easier to do this.
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Per the instructions, stir as fast as possible till it comes to a boil…. Just checking if your still paying attention ! It won’t boil…. so don’t try.
Just mix it every once in a while to keep the activation going. On to the bench, lets spread some glue..

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We laid out the to order of the build, Cut glass, taper, riser, parallels and glass

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Push the glue into the glass while spreading the epoxy, it sorta works into the micro grooves and works it way inside, do the glass and taper on both sides, use pressure to spread the glue, work it in.
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Mate the wet to wet side and hold it under a light to see if there are any dry spots, NO DRY SPOTS !!!

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Once satisfied it’s covered good place it on the press and do the other side same way.


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With both side done , now comes the tricky part, remember when I said it’s nice to have 4 hands? Now you will see what I’m talking about, epoxy slips and slides everywhere……….trust me !!! Right Apex?


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I always add extra in the fade area, you can never use too much glue !! Once warm it’s almost water consistency and flows very easy, that why we also need constant pressure too.

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Next comes the riser, do the bottom then the top, lots of some woods give off bunch of oil, so I’ll take a moment and wipe the riser again with de-Natured alcohol to make sure it will bond well. Like I said it evaporates quickly.

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Now set it on the pin, it used to hold the lams down, I’ll bet a dollar it won’t now hence the third needed hand

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Add more epoxy to the fades

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We are on the final lap, glue the long glass and parallel put them together,

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Now the fun part, taping it down to the press and getting it to stay where I want it to be, it’s slick , real slick

Ta…..Duhhhhh
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Line it up and we are good to go for taping

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Start with the riser first one side then the other, oh and you also need to pull the cling wrap up and over the riser too, so the glue won’t get all over everything………..hand number 4 is now needed !!!!

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Work down the limb one or two places then jump to the other side because the laminations are now sliding the other way. Tape the lams in 3-4 places on each side.


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Make sure the lams are tightly taped to the curves, tape is cheap use plenty
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Now that we have glue all over us (just happens) taped our gloves to the press (couple times) and finally it’s time to set the washers
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Next the waxed pressure strip is laid on top of the wrapped cling wrap

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The air hose
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And finally the top, lock it down !!!!

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Now the final check. Adjust anything that don’t look right or has slid a little bit, adjust the hose to be sticking out equal on both sides so it will push straight down and not slide the lams sideway. look everything over again and …….
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Inflate to #60 and were are DONE building….. Now into the oven

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This part makes you feel great…………………and……scared too
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Lock it down so it can’t get away

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Now set the timer for 6 hours at 180 degrees, I also write on the lid the time it went in.



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Now we wait, it’ll be in for 6 hours then the oven shuts off and allowed to cool down slowly over night and maybe tomorrow we can see what we have.

Ok, don’t know bout you guys but I’m excited, just knowing I have the only bow like this in the world. Some are close but I have the only one like this.

What you just read takes about 1 ½ to 2 hours to do, The epoxy starts "going off " in about 2 hours and when it gets thick, it gets real tough to move things around. that’s why everything is prepped and ready to go before we mix the epoxy.

Thank you for taggen along with me, it’s fun to see how things are created, especially from scratch. Till later


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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby Aeronut » Mon May 25, 2009 3:49 pm

I can hardly wait to see the results.
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Re: Lets design and make a recurve...

Postby kevin12306 » Mon May 25, 2009 10:58 pm

Yep, your enthusiasim is contagious!!!
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