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Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 5:24 pm
by TradRag
Are any of you doing this? Or willing to do build-along for tthe rest of us. I'd love to see what you have or have done. Thanks.

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 9:47 am
by born2hunt
I'll charge the camera and do a build-along. I used to splice feathers for sale and learned alot and made all the mistakes.

Spliced feathers can really dress up a set of arrows. I have gotten away from them for hunting though, because weather can mess them up too much.

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 12:13 pm
by TradRag
born2hunt wrote:I'll charge the camera and do a build-along. I used to splice feathers for sale and learned alot and made all the mistakes.

Spliced feathers can really dress up a set of arrows. I have gotten away from them for hunting though, because weather can mess them up too much.


You are the man :!: Thank you. I have to agree with you if they are too pretty they would be hard to shoot.

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 12:20 pm
by born2hunt
OK, so you want to dress up a dozen arrows for the summer 3D shoots. You've dipped, crested or used wraps, but they still need something to set them off. Feather Splicing will give you needed effect, but how do you do it? Easy!

Here is what you'll need.

Razor or snap-knife, Something to measure with, Pencil (don't use pen), Glue, Feathers.

Make sure you use feathers of the same "wing". These are both right wing.

Ink will bleed into your glue so use pencil.

Use the glue you use to fletch with. I have experimented with many different glues, but found the the gasket laquer glue or fletch-tite work the best. I haven't had good luck with Duco. The Seal All glue is the same glue packaged as Fletch-tite, just a lot cheaper.

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 12:27 pm
by born2hunt
I like to use full length feathers and cut them to length first. It doesn't hurt to make them just a little long and trim them later. I then measure and mark the bottom of the feather where the splice will be. This will be a "Tail Splice" 1 1/2" long.

If you're trying to match a cresting pattern, take careful measurements and mark them on the feather.

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 12:41 pm
by born2hunt
Now you need to sepparate the vanes above the mark and cut through the membrane, but not the core. This can be the tricky part. It's usually best to cut a little, then try to pry the membrane up. If it doesn't lift, cut just a little more. I peel from the rear toward the front. To start it, I use the point of my knife, lifting the membrane. It will resist at first, but once started, it peels nicely.

Once the membrane starts to lift, you can peel it and the attached vanes off the core. If the membrane is too thin, it will tear and stay attached to the core. If this happens, you will need to scrape or sand this membrane off.

You may want to save this piece for future splices.

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 12:48 pm
by born2hunt
Once you peel up to the cut in the membrane, the unwanted piece should be free. A thick feather core may have membrane holding on the sides which you can easily cut away.

What's left is a feather that looks like this.

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 12:56 pm
by born2hunt
Not all feathers are the same. Try to pick feathers with the same thickness of vanes and width of core.

This feather has similar vanes and width of core on the front, as the black has on the rear. I will take the vanes and membrane from the front to place on the rear of the black one.

The technique is the same, but I will peel about a quarter of an inch longer than what I need for the splice. This allows me to trim it if needed.

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 1:00 pm
by born2hunt
I trimmed the front of this splice piece, then I test fit. Running the vanes between my fingers, they joined and I could feel that they were close to the same width. I pressed the membrane down to the core and they were the same width also.

A good fit and now I'm ready to glue.

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 1:18 pm
by born2hunt
I put a thin bead on the core and spread it with my knife-point, if needed. It's important to cover the entire core evenly for a good glue seam.

Place the splice piece on the core and join the vanes. I start from the front of the splice and push down on the vanes between two fingers while pushing up on the bottom of the core. I work my way back in this manner, until all air and excess glue is pushed out evenly.

If the membrane stays down, set the feather aside to cure. Sometimes, you may need to apply more glue or pull the splice off and start over if it lifts. It usually doesn't lift except on the tail end, where I'll apply just a little more glue with a toothpick and press down again.

Once the glue is cured, clean off any excess glue and membrane with your razor knife and trim the feather to length.

You're done! It only takes a couple minutes per feather. All that's left, is to chop the shape or glue onto the shaft and burn.

It is possible to splice die-cut feathers, but getting the vanes to fit is more difficult. I've done it, with decent results, but have found it much easier to use full feathers.

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 1:23 pm
by born2hunt
Here is an example of a feather I spliced to match cresting.

Use your imagination and you'll like the results when splicing. Besides, it will give you something else to do in the off season.

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 4:03 pm
by born2hunt
Here are some examples of spliced feathers on arrows. I mostly just splice the cock feather, but the half and half arrow has all three feathers spliced.

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 4:15 pm
by TradRag
Those are Amazing! Thank you SO much for sharing. I have got to try this. I am assuming it is better to use un-cut feathers?? Or can I start with some 5" shield cuts I already have?

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 4:21 pm
by born2hunt
You can splice die-cuts just fine. It is easier to work with full feathers, but any feather can be spliced unless it's frayed.

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 11:00 am
by TradGirl
WOW... That is too cool! Thank you b2h for sharing. :P Maybe my husband will make me some. Or better yet, I can show him :lol:

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 7:11 pm
by JDice
Here are some examples - using pre-cut feathers. There is about 2 months of learning between the 3 fletchs and the 4 fletchs. As you can see - I don't like wasting feathers. I find the 4 fletchs result in arrows that are noticable quieter than the 3 fletchs and a little faster - at least out of my 60# Super Diablo.

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 8:30 pm
by CaptJack
WOW !!
I'm impressed
:)

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 3:49 pm
by akhawkeye
Nice work! Those are some great looking arrows.

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 11:43 pm
by born2hunt
Here's a few more.

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 7:38 am
by Deathmaster
Very nice work people.
Deathmaster

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 6:18 pm
by rancid crabtree
That is some great and time consuming work.

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 9:33 pm
by stillwaterselfbows
What glue do use to attach your splice to the quill?

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 7:10 pm
by born2hunt
I use whatever I'm fletching with at the time. These days I use the gasket laquer glue - dries fast and holds good. Regular old Fletch-Tite works well, as does the Seal-All (same as Fletch-Tite).

I've tried all sorts of glues (Super Glue and such) but have had a more consistant bond with the three glues mentioned above.

Ken

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 11:48 am
by snag
I have just started splicing my fletchings. But looking at this "stripping" off the membrance technique brings up some questions. I have been cutting feathers and butt end gluing them together. This way when I chop and glue them all the quills are attached to a base just like they came. By gluing the stripped feathers to a base I would be concerned more about them coming detached than if they were on their own base...maybe not? Also, it would seem harder to glue all the feather to the new base than just to butt end glue them together. The smaller the area to glue the better is the way I think of it. But like I said I am new to this. I know there are different ways to accomplish the same thing. You do very nice work!

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 4:18 pm
by snag
Image
I was inspired by some of the guys who splice a color in that matches up with the same color on the shaft. It is a lot more work. But it's fun to see it come together...once in awhile! :D

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 4:23 pm
by TradRag
wow... very nice! you did a GREAT job on those!

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 7:00 pm
by born2hunt
nice work snag. nothing wrong with doing the way you are, especially with single splices. The membrane method allows you to make more, smaller splices without having to align them in your fletching clamp and allows you to make spliced feathers in advance of fletching them onto a shaft, that's all.

Ken

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 2:48 pm
by snag
I guess I'm lazy or unskilled...I just can't seem to strip the quills off without making a mess of things. So I went to gluing them butt-joined by using a straight clamp. Then I sand off any excess super glue and get a good flat surface to glue the fletching onto the shaft. I might give the stripping method another chance at some point....

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 5:28 pm
by jmichelin84
Bountyhunter does amazing work aswell, if you search him up on youtube you will not be let down :)

Re: Feather Splicing

PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2012 8:38 am
by stickandlimb
Thats to cool