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21 posts • Page 1 of 1
This is the process I use to make the broadheads that I hunt with.
I use 125 grain field points and reshape them to remove the shoulders. this step may not be necessary buy It looks nice.
the blades are cut from a .039 thick bandsaw blade.
the jig for slotting the field point is made of steel and clamps the point while the spacer (piece of hacksaw blade) Leaves room for the saw to pass between the two halves to cut the slot.
I then polish the two pieces and make sure I have a good fit up.
Next I braze the two parts together although I think solder or even J.B. Weld would suffice. I may try this on the next batch because brazing is messy and I have to quench afterward to make sure the heads are hard.
After cleaning and polishing again, I use a cold bluing to protect the heads and then a light coat of oil.
Finished weight, 165 grains. about 1 inch wide (15/16) and 1 1/4 long.
After reading Dr. Ashby's report on single bevel broadheads.(right after I finished the last batch of double bevel heads) I just had to make some single bevel heads. It just makes so much sense. I will test both to see if I get his results.
http://www.tradgang.com/ashby/single-be ... dheads.pdf
After making the first set of single bevel heads, I made a new set with a longer profile.
I had not yet been able to harvest a deer with my homemade broadheads and I was itching to try them out . I was really curious about the single bevel blades and what they will do.
As luck would have it, a neighbor brought me a fresh archery kill to process for him. I asked him if it would be ok to test my heads on his deer. He didn't mind since he wanted the whole deer ground into sausage and/or burger. So here she is. All 68 pounds of her (dressed) I would have loved to be trying this on a 150 pound deer but beggars can't be choosers.
I made three shots from 10 yards with my 45 pound longbow that shoots an arrow at a blazing 142 FPS. the first two were through the ribs and the final one hit the shoulder blade at the point where the flat and the "T" meet, right near the ball joint. This is (in my opinion) the largest and thickest bone section in the upper shoulder. I admit that hitting this far forward is not a good place to aim on a live animal but things happen beyond our control. I of course hit this spot with pin point precision on purpose.
The rib shots were complete pass throughs but the shoulder shot ended up with just the fletches sticking out entrance side. I know there were no lungs in the deer but they don't offer much in the way of resistance any way. Also consider that this deer was cold and stiff as rigor mortise had set in so I consider all things equal.
Right off the bat, I noticed the "S" shaped cuts that Dr. Ashby had spoke about. This was the case on both the entrance and exit holes.
*** Word of caution***
When you pull the arrow back out of the deer (through a bone) and you have sharpened your broadheads on the trailing edge as well as the main edge. Make sure to keep your fingers clear even though you need to hold the deer steady while retrieving the arrow.
After a brief bit of first aid, I began to skin the deer, I noticed that both of the rib shots had completely missed hitting ribs on both sides. My goal was to break a rib to see the results but I must have used up all my luck..... I mean skill on that shoulder shot.
I then removed the shoulder and boned it out.
Just as described by Dr. Ashby, the "S" shaped cut and the bone had split completely being held at the joint end by only some soft fibers.
As expected, the single bevel head is a real bone breaker/splitter. I know this is a very small deer but again, I was using a rather low power bow. Take from this what you will but I am even more pleased with the single bevel heads. This sort of thing is not necessary with todays super fast and powerful bows hunting whitetails but for those using traditional archery gear, or those going after large or dangerous game, we are looking for every advantage we can get.
After that, I went with a longer and heavier design. Below are the first two of the new half dozen heads I made and hunted with last year. They are similar to the heads I have made in prior years only these are a bit longer to give a better aspect ratio ( 2.6 : 1 ) and have the added weight I was looking for to be used with my longbow . They are just under 1 inch wide with a blade thickness of .039. The blades are single bevel. They are made the same way as prior heads where the blades are pinned to the ferrule.
If some of the pictures above look familiar, you might have seen them in an issue of traditional bowhunter magazine last fall.
Wisconsin Bowhunters Association
Wisconsin Traditional Archers
Love your homemade broadheads.
My wife, daughter and myself all shoot Grizzly single-bevel heads. I am a true believer in single-bevels. While I have only shot elk with these heads, my wife took a nice mulie doe and an elk this last year. Both shots were pass-throughs, but on the deer, the rear ribs were hit on entry. You can see what the broadhead did to those ribs and kept on going till it buried in the mud on the far side of the doe. Also notice how large the hole is. The exit hole was as large, but the broadhead slipped through the ribs on the far side of the quartering away shot.
Rancid,that is fantastic! I have thought about this for awhile myself on how to make a head from field points and here you have it all figured out!!! Thanks for taking the time to share,it is greatly appreciated by all.P.S. I like the blued heads best!
Thanks for the great walk through. May be giving that a try soon. Not sure it is legal to sharpen that back edge like that here in Bama. Great looking broad heads. Thanks again, you available to contact if I get stuck on the build?
Now therefore take, I pray thee, thy weapons, thy quiver and thy bow, and go out to the field, and take me some venison;a And make me savoury meat, such as I love... Gen 27:3-4
OK...that was a Cool post. Thank you!!
Those broadheads are really cool. I personnally would go with a straight edge an have NO curving..I think the curving would hinder penetration in a tough situation, but they are still kick butt heads!! Nice pictorial!!
This is a great post! Thank you Rancid!
"Ne Desit Virtus" ("Let Valor Not Fail")
Oklahoma Selfbow Society Charter Member
Bowhunting Council of Oklahoma Member
PBS Associate Member
Founder of TradRag.com
Rancid, great post. A couple of questions, how do you cut out your blades? Do you grind them or use a plasma cutter. Also, how are you cutting your bevel? I use a Lansky jig to sharpen my heads, but seems like it may take forerver to get them ground. Thanks again! Tommy
Founding Member - OSS
Thats freekin awesome man. I hafta ask what a living, because your metal work and polishing on your blades is as professional as I've ever saw.
It's not what you do............ It's how you do it.
rancid my friend I have a whole bag full of target points that are about 25g .. could u some how send me a drawing of the blade it self as I would like to make some... they look like the old case heads..
Very nice job my friend,
Rancid...I just joined Tradrag and your broadhead was the first site I looked at. It is magnificent and you are the man!! Excellent job. I am jealous of your ability but I will most definitely give this a try. Thanks and as always...Be safe! Desperado
This is an outstanding post. This is a technique that I have been wanting to try for awhile. I have two broadheads that I drew up myself. (while sitting in some very boring meetings.) My question to you is, "how do you make the field point holder? That is the one thing that has kept me from going any further than cutting out the heads. Any advice would be welcome.
I was JUST thinking of doing this myself lOl, but using a 125 grain bullet points, could you show some more pics of the jig please?? i know its an older post, id enjoy a diagram of how it looks from the inside, top and side lol, and where did you get the parts for the blades??
Living off the land with tools that you have created yourself, is life its self, quote from my Grand Father
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